For each round change the colour of the yarn. Rounds 1 and 5 have the same colour.
Start with a magic ring.
start with a magic ring, chain 3
join into 3rd chain
first round
Rnd 1 – into MR ch3, 2 tr ( 3ch, 3 tr) twice, ch3 slst to 3rd chain. Finish and weave in ends.
start with a standing treble
second round completed
Rnd 2 – work standing tr, 2tr, 3 ch, 3tr into a corner space, ( 1ch, 3tr, 3ch, 3tr) into next two corner spaces. 1 ch slst into standing treble. Break yarn, finish and weave in ends
round three
round three
round four
round five
Rnd 3, 4, 5 – start in any 1ch space, starting with a standing tr, work 3 tr into each ch 1 space, in each corner space work (3tr, 3ch, 3tr) join round to beginning standing tr, break yarn, finish and weave in ends.
Add Tassels
wrap yarn around hand
cut into short lengths
attach
In one corner of each triangle add a tassel.
Tassels are made by wrapping all 4 yarns around the palm twice and snipping, so that there are 8 lengths of yarn approximately 20cms long.
Fold the strands in half and attach by inserting the folded centre from top to bottom of the triangle and pulling the cut ends around the corner chain of the triangle and through the fold.
Tassels help the triangles to hang nicely.
Join buntings
Row 1 – Crochet a chain about 30 cm, long enough to be used to tie the bunting up with. Dc across the top edge of a triangle, chain as desired between buntings, then dc across next triangle. Once all triangles are joined, make a chain long enough to use as a tie.
Row 2 – DC across the chains and dc on previous row. Break yarn and finish.
A simple pattern brings out the beauty of hand dyed yarns. The Ripples Cowl pattern allows the yarn to be the hero. Use a single skein and make a cowl or two to make a scarf.
Row 1 (RS) htr in 2nd ch from hook, htr in same ch. (htr in next 5 ch, skip 2 ch, htr in next 5 ch, 3htr in next ch) repeat to last ch 2htr in last ch, turn.
Row 2 Ch2, 2htr in 1st htr, (htr in next 5 htr, skip 2 htr, htr in next 5 htr, 3 htr in next htr) repeat to last htr, 2 htr in last htr, turn.
Repeat row 2 until out of yarn. Match the beginning to the end, twist the end to create an infinity cowl, seam together to form a loop.
Row 1 (RS) hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in same ch. (hdc in next 5 ch, skip 2 ch, hdc in next 5 ch, 3 hdc in next ch) repeat to last ch 2 hdc in last ch, turn.
Row 2 Ch2, 2 hdc in 1st hdc, (hdc in next 5 hdc, skip 2 hdc, hdc in next 5 hdc, 3 hdc in next hdc) repeat to last hdc, 2 hdc in last hdc, turn.
Repeat row 2 until out of yarn. Match the beginning to the end, twist the end to create an infinity cowl, seam together to form a loop.
I tend to make up the pattern as I go with these bags. Cotton yarns work well as they don’t stretch out as much as wool or acrylic yarns do. I use various weights of yarn, with an 8ply, I use a 3.5mm hook, with a 10ply a 4.5mm hook. Experiment to find what works for you.
Approximately 100gms of yarn is used, but this will depend on the size of the bag you make. I used Scheepjes Soft Fun available in my webstore HERE
Once you understand the construction they are fast and fun to work up.
Base
Start with 5 chains and join into the staring chain with a slip stitch to form a loop.
Round 1 Work 3 chains and 12 trebles into the loop, join with a slip stitch into third chain.
Round 2 Work 3 chains, then work 2 trebles into each treble to make 24 trebles, join with a slip stitch into third chain.
Round 3 Work 3 chains, then work (1 treble then 2 trebles) repeating (around, increasing by another 12 stitches to make 36 stitches, join with a slip stitch into third chain.
Continue increasing 12 stitches in each round until the base is as large as required.
So round 4 would be ( 1 treble, 1 treble, then 2 trebles) repeated. Round 5 would be (1,1,1,2)
I make my bag bottoms 5 rounds.
Hint: to help keep track of the increases, always V stitch in the centre of a V stitch.
Work the base
Sides of bag
Are made with chain loops which are slip stitched into every second stitch to anchor them.
The length of the chain loops can be varied. Less stitches smaller holes, more stitches bigger holes and a bigger bag. I like 7 chains, I do like prime numbers!
Work the chain loops in a spiral until the bag is the desired length.
Work the sides
Top of Bag
Can be left without a top border, as in a produce bag and a long chain made and threaded through the top loops to double as the handles and closure.
Or can be crocheted around to give a firm edge. I work two or more double crochet stitches into each loop and one into the slip stitch. The number of stitches worked determines how wide the opening of the bag will be. Work in a spiral until the edge is as wide as you would like.
Double crochet around the top
Handles
Built in Handles..
Can be incorporated into the edge by twice making a large chain and skipping a section of the double crochets before anchoring down and completing the round. Try to make sure the chain loops are balanced opposite each other. On the next round add double crochets into each of chains in the chain loops from the previous round. Work a few more rounds to make a wider handle.
Work 2 built in handles opposite each other
Long handles
On the final round add the handle by working back and forth over a few stitches until the handle is long enough. Work out where the opposite point is and attach the handle by crocheting it together with the opposite edge. More stitches wider handle, less narrower. Handles and bags stretch a lot when carrying items so ensure handle is not too long.
One long Handle
PLAY …. string bags are fast to make and very easy to experiment with.
For the last few years I have been seeing Temperature blankets popping up in my social media feeds. Although I have been tempted, I also know I’m not the greatest at sticking to long term projects. As the many UnFinished Objects hidden around the shop in the boxes under the shelves attest too. (and you thought they were just for hiding all the extra stock from Peter.)
Having committed publicly and now having a group of us working on it, in the Knit Spin Weave Brains Trust Group. I am pretty confident this year I will keep to the plan.
I ordered in Scheepjes Cotton 8 in the colours suggested by Esther and put starter kits together, available in the webstore here. If the colours aren’t to your taste I am happy to order in other colours of Cotton 8, it would take less than a month to come into stock. The other colours of Cotton 8 can be viewed on the Scheepjes Website. Send me a message on Facebook or leaving a comment here, with the colours you would prefer.
I have started my wrap. I started by making each row a different day and wasn’t happy with the result, as the ends being sewn in on such short rows was bulky and unattractive. I made a second start and did 10 rows in the Day 1 colour (orange for me) to start. I will now be working one row for each day.
If you would like to join along it’s not too late and past temperatures can be found on the BOM Website. I am using the temperatures for Clare on the BOM website.
The latest WooCommerce square update has messed up my stock levels again. As such I'm unable to ensure that the stock levels on the website are correct. If your ordered item isn't available I will email you.
Email me for orders and enquiries Tracy@knitspinweave.com.au Dismiss
Materials
