DRAFT ONLY This pattern hasn’t been tested by anyone but me. So any errors please let me know. I am currently working on a video Knit-a-long for those who are better with video instructions. Thanks to Deb and the Knit Nighters who did a quick read through this morning before I put it up here.
I have been hiding these fairies around the Courtyard. As I sat out the front of the shop knitting yesterday , I had the joy of watching little people find the fairies in the garden. Share the joy. Their joy was contagious, adults too smile when they find the fairies hidden.
Our joy may only be a tear to put out the flames of anger, but a flood of joy can make the world a better place for all.
K2togtbl – Knit 2 together through back loop ( slip the first as if to knit and replace it back onto the left needle, then knit the two stitches together through the back loops)
Legs – make 1 with skin colour
Cast on 4 sts and work icord for 20cms.
Sew in ends and tie a knot on each end to make feet.
Icord is folded in half to make two legs.
With dress colour:
Cast on 32 sts (leave a long tail 30cms used to sew dress up.)
Join in the round
Rnd 1 purl
Rnd 2 and 3 knit
Place a stitch marker between sts 16 and 17
Rnd 4 k1, 2togtbl, knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1 slip marker, k1, k2togtbl, knit to 3 sts before end of round, k2tog, k1. (28sts)
Rnd 5 and 6 knit
Repeat rnds 4-6 twice more,( 20sts)
Work 12 rounds in knit or until the body is desired length.
Change to skin colour, leaving a long tail of the dress colour, 30cms.
Work 7 rounds in knit for face
Change colour to hat colour
Rnd 1 purl
Rnd 2 and 3 knit
Rnd 4 (k2, k2tog) around (15st)
Rnd 5 knit
Rnd 6 (k1, k2tog) around (10sts)
Rnd 7 knit
Rnd 8 (k2tog) around (5sts)
Rnd 9 k2tog, k3, (4sts)
Work icord for 12 rounds or until desired length.
Break yarn leaving at least 15cm and thread yarn through stitches, gather to close. Secure end.
Tie the icord into a knot. (use the yarn tail to help tie the top knot)
Cast on 30sts
Knit 2 rows
Row 3 p2tog knit to last 2 sts, k2tog (28sts)
Repeat row 3 until 8 sts remain
Knit one row
Increase row kfb, knit to last st kfb (10sts)
Repeat increase row until 30sts are on the needle
Knit 2 rows
Stuff head and hat and using long tail left from dress colour, gather up neck.
Line up base of body, matching front and back side decreases. Fold icord in half to make two legs. Stuff body and sew up base of body catching in the folded icord. Place stitches between cast on and purl row
Arms – using dress colour work running stitches to define arms. Start with a 3 back stitches to secure the yarn at where the hand will be. Sew up the body through all layers, along a line of stitches.
Eyes – embroider with 3 back stitches. Worked over one knit stitch each, one row below hat. Eyes have 2 knit stitches between them.
Gather wings down the center row. Wings are placed so the knitting is sideways. Gather along the center sideways to define the shape of the wings.
Today at the Sock Sessions, Charlie a very new knitter, finished her first project a large garter stitch square for a cushion. She had some Patons Super Quick left so I suggested she make some simple mitts. With her 10mm needles and Patons Super Quick, Charlie casted on 12 sts and made herself a pair of mitts in less than 2 hours! Not bad for a new knitter. This is my ‘recipe’ for these super quick and easy first project for the new knitter.
I wrote this recipe/pattern up in 2013 and it is available on Ravelry as a PDF download HERE
The basic shape of these mitts is a rectangle. The design could be knit in many weights of yarn by recalculating the cast on stitches and rows knitted and changing the needle size to match.
The simplicity of this design makes the most of hand spun yarn.
The perfect first knitting project, a pair of mitts takes less than 50 gms of 8ply yarn to complete.
An experienced knitter can make many pairs in a day. They are a great fundraising item. I used to sell these, knitted in my hand spun, at the craft shop in Wirrabarra.
Jazz them up by using lots of scraps of yarn or knit them plain and simple.
50 grams of DK or worsted weight wool yarn.
4mm straight knitting needles
Wool needle for seaming
My gauge was 20 stitches X 26 rows to 10cm over stocking stitch.
The mitts are small enough to be their own gauge swatch. A firm fabric will take the wear that mitts get. If fabric is too loose, decrease needle size; too firm, increase needle size.
Knit a mitt, then examine it for fit. The mitt needs some negative ease for a firm fit.
If the fit is too tight add rows to the pattern or too big decrease the number of rows.
If the mitt is too short – add stitches, too long – decrease stitches.
Pattern – make 2
Cast on sts
Width to knit
Extra Small (Toddler)
Cast on the number of stitches for size required. (The length of the mitt)
Knit in garter stitch for the size required.(The width of the mitt)
Fold fabric matching cast on edge to bind off edge.
Using a whip stitch sew up from the bottom until where the base of the thumb hole will be. Sew from the top to where the top of the thumb hole will be. Sew in ends and trim.
I tend to make up the pattern as I go with these bags. Cotton yarns work well as they don’t stretch out as much as wool or acrylic yarns do. I use various weights of yarn, with an 8ply, I use a 3.5mm hook, with a 10ply a 4.5mm hook. Experiment to find what works for you.
Approximately 100gms of yarn is used, but this will depend on the size of the bag you make. I used Scheepjes Soft Fun available in my webstore HERE
Once you understand the construction they are fast and fun to work up.
Start with 5 chains and join into the staring chain with a slip stitch to form a loop.
Round 1 Work 3 chains and 12 trebles into the loop, join with a slip stitch into third chain.
Round 2 Work 3 chains, then work 2 trebles into each treble to make 24 trebles, join with a slip stitch into third chain.
Round 3 Work 3 chains, then work (1 treble then 2 trebles) repeating (around, increasing by another 12 stitches to make 36 stitches, join with a slip stitch into third chain.
Continue increasing 12 stitches in each round until the base is as large as required.
So round 4 would be ( 1 treble, 1 treble, then 2 trebles) repeated. Round 5 would be (1,1,1,2)
I make my bag bottoms 5 rounds.
Hint: to help keep track of the increases, always V stitch in the centre of a V stitch.
Sides of bag
Are made with chain loops which are slip stitched into every second stitch to anchor them.
The length of the chain loops can be varied. Less stitches smaller holes, more stitches bigger holes and a bigger bag. I like 7 chains, I do like prime numbers!
Work the chain loops in a spiral until the bag is the desired length.
Top of Bag
Can be left without a top border, as in a produce bag and a long chain made and threaded through the top loops to double as the handles and closure.
Or can be crocheted around to give a firm edge. I work two or more double crochet stitches into each loop and one into the slip stitch. The number of stitches worked determines how wide the opening of the bag will be. Work in a spiral until the edge is as wide as you would like.
Built in Handles..
Can be incorporated into the edge by twice making a large chain and skipping a section of the double crochets before anchoring down and completing the round. Try to make sure the chain loops are balanced opposite each other. On the next round add double crochets into each of chains in the chain loops from the previous round. Work a few more rounds to make a wider handle.
On the final round add the handle by working back and forth over a few stitches until the handle is long enough. Work out where the opposite point is and attach the handle by crocheting it together with the opposite edge. More stitches wider handle, less narrower. Handles and bags stretch a lot when carrying items so ensure handle is not too long.
PLAY …. string bags are fast to make and very easy to experiment with.